Remember this post from last year about Bucharest’s tallest buildings?

Well, we decided to develop the idea and write a feature on the tallest buildings in Bucharest for the next edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket. We will post a link to the feature here when it is completed.

Anyway, having researched the city’s tallest buildings a little more thoroughly this time, the final top ten we have come up with is in fact slightly different to the original list.

Bucharest Tower Centre (120 metres)
Elevator Test Tower (114 metres)
Casa Scanteii (104 metres)
Asmita Gardens (90 metres)
BRD Tower (87 metres)
Casa Poporului (86 metres)
Bucharest Financial Plaza (83 metres)
Nusco Tower (80 metres)
InterContinental (77 metres)
Cathedral Plaza (75 metres)

Entries not present before include: Asmita Gardens (a residential development of seven blocks, the tallest of which is 90 metres high. Read about its fate here); the Nusco Tower in Pipera (home of Oracle and Volksbank); the controversial Cathedral Plaza, which, though completed in 2010, is currently empty while a long and complicated legal case (the project’s developer has had to go to the European Court of Human Rights) waits to be resolved.

The completed but empty Cathedral Plaza. You can guess where it gets its name from

 

As you will probably know if you have read this, we spent the festive season at our in-laws in Petresti, Satu Mare, at the other end of the country. Having completely forgotten to book flights back when we should have done in October, we ended up driving. The experience was, surprisingly, not all bad.

It helped greatly of course that we could avoid the hellishness of the Valea Prahovei. We don’t think that a day of the holidays passed by without the television news channels showing a three-hour traffic jam between Comarnic and Busteni.


View Maps in a larger map

No, instead of the Valea Prahovei route we took the Valea Oltului option, driving via Pitesti and Ramnicu Valcea to Sibiu, where we spent the night in order to ‘live test’ the newly published Sibiu In Your Pocket, which by a miracle of printing, publishing and distribution was sitting on the reception desk at the Sibiu Ibis not four days after we had uploaded the final version for the printer. (Don’t ever let anyone tell you that you can’t get things done double quick in this country).

The next morning we completed the journey via Alba Iulia, Turda, the nightmare that is Cluj (there is no by-pass), Zalau, Tasnad and Carei.

All in all Bucharest – Petresti is about a nine hour drive, only slightly more than the usually overly-optimistic Google Maps says it will take. Not bad, but it should be remembered that with motorways between major cities it would be doable in around five and a half hours.

At present there is a motorway only on the first 110km of the journey (the old Bucuresti – Pitesti motorway). There is also an odd bit of recently opened motorway somewhere in the Turda area, about 35km or so, which goes from the middle of nowhere to the middle of nowhere, but a total lack of signposting makes it useless. We did in fact see it: the DN1 passes underneath an impressive looking viaduct at one stage, but finding out how to actually get to it was beyond us.

Anyway, lack of motorways aside, the point (yes, there is one) we want to make is that the state of Romania’s national roads is really rather good. At least better than many people appear to think it is.

In fact, the only dodgy bits we hit on the entire journey were when passing through cities, and on the county road between Bobota and Carei, the last leg of the journey. While on the E68 and E81 the road surface is invariably impeccable: nary a pothole to be seen.

Of course, portions of dual carriageway are few and far between, the road passes through way too many villages and the need for motorways remains huge. But the next time somebody says Romania’s roads are terrible, ask them exactly what it is they mean.

 

Here’s a problem we have never faced before: What does a responsible city guide do about these protests (a couple of which have ended violently) currently taking place every evening in Bucharest?

We have a deadline approaching ahead of the publication of the February – March issue of Bucharest In Your Pocket, and are in something of a quandary as to whether we should say anything about the protests or not.

We this morning placed this short text on our website, which we hope avoids hyperbole and conveys the right mix of common sense and reality:

Are we going to ignore the elephant in the room? No, we are not, for there is no getting away from the fact that these are troubled times for Romania and for Bucharest in particular.

As we write, protests against the Romanian government are being held nightly in Piata Universitatii. Though small and generally good natured, the protests have – a couple of times – ended in violence between protestors and Romania’s notoriously brutal paramilitary jendarmes.

However: you must not let the protests put you off visiting the city or the Piata Universitatii area (indeed, judging by the number of people posting photos to Facebook and Twitter – including the now famous photo above – they have become sonethng of an attraction for visitors). Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense and make sure you have some ID on you: the police will almost certainly detain you if you cannot produce ID when asked.

Remember: Bucharest remains one of the safest cities in Europe; the protests have not changed that.

Fair and balanced?

Thoughts welcome.

As for the print guide we think we will play it by ear. If the protests come to an abrupt halt we will mention them in the past tense, in the Foreword. If they go on, however, the above text might well get another outing.

 

Romania’s National School of Administration and Political Science (SNSPA) last year carried out an in-depth study to find out what the people of Bucharest thought about the place in which they live. While the study was published in May last year, its existence – and its findings – have only just become made known to us. We apologise for being a bit late.

Nothing in the report – which you can read here – can really be said to come as a major surprise. The people of Bucharest identified the city’s biggest problems as:

State of the roads 18 per cent
Lack of cleanliness 14 per cent
State of hospitals and clinics 11 per cent
Traffic 9 per cent
Crime 8 per cent

The only surprise is probably the lack of stray dogs from the list of problems, as well as crime’s place at fifth. We have said before that we do not think crime is a major problem in Bucharest, but then we do not live in what could be called the worst area of the city. Indeed, looking at the breakdown of the city’s problems by area, you get very different results. In Berceni, lack of cleanliness and stray dogs occupy the top two places. In the wealthy north, crime is top. (In the central districts, parking is the major problem).

Best area of the city? The North, apparently, according to 24 per cent of the population, slightly ahead of the city centre with 20 per cent.

Meantime a whopping 79 per cent think that Rahova/Ferentari is the worst area of the capital. Are they all wrong?

 

First off, try this piece from the AP for size, which looks at the situation in Romania in a wider, Eastern European context.

This piece offers some background on the man whose resignation was the catalyst for the protests, Raed Arafat.

Then there is this from the BBC, written by an old friend, Sorin Ionita, formerly of the Romanian Academic Society (SAR) but now at a new think-tank, the Expert Forum.

Finally, if you have not seen this yet, shame on you. This is how you deal with rioters: AARRGGGHHH!!!

Today could be an interesting day. There will be a huge opposition rally in the north of the city this afternoon (the opposition have yet to get the message that the protests are against all politicians, not just the government), while shortly afterwards the city’s football supporters (whose hooligan element were blamed for much of the trouble on Saturday and Sunday) have promised to join the protest peacefully.

Question is: Will Bucharest’s delightful jendarmes let them?

 

UPDATE: As of Tuesday morning, this is now probably the most balanced English-language piece on the protests. Read it online at The Grauniad.

The Economist‘s always excellent Eastern Approaches blog has just published probably the best English-language summary of events so far (although the Battle of Bucharest headline is pushing it a little).

Read it here.

As we write, protesters are again gathering in Piata Universitatii, so far peacefully.

One question: Why always Piata Universitatii?

OK, we know the history, but there is not a government building for miles around (except the Agricultural Ministry).

Why not go protest outside the government’s HQ in Piata Victoriei, or outside Cotroceni Palace, official residence of Romanian President Traian Basescu?

PS We have a feeling that if the protests go on for much longer the UDMR (the ruling PDL‘s coalition partner) might jump ship. Just a hunch.

 

There was a mini-riot in Bucharest last night. A lot of fuss over nothing. You can read a BBC news report of the events here, and there is video from Reuters here.

Anyway, two quick points.

1. If you are not happy with a government, you can choose not to re-elect it at the next election. In Romania’s case that will be this year. That is kind of how a democracy works.

2. The Romanian jendarmes are brutish shits, made up – it would appear – primarily of gorillas who were not clever enough to make the regular police force or the army. Saturday night’s violence was a direct result of them over-reacting.