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Around Bucharest with a tripod

A tripod, yesterday

A tripod, yesterday

When we were still in short trousers, one of the most talked-about programmes on television was a wonderfully low-budget BBC sci-fi adaption of John Christopher’s Tripods books.

The plot, in a nutshell, is this: humanity has been conquered and enslaved by The Tripods, unseen alien entities who travel about in gigantic, terrifying three-legged walking machines.

All very well you say, but what’s the Bucharest connection to The Tripods?

Well, last week, we spent a great couple of days making a batch of very short videos in and around some of Bucharest’s most famous sights for the In Your Pocket channel on You Tube.

To do so, we used a very ordinary HDD video camera, a remote microphone which was tucked discreetly under the collar, and… a tripod.

Now, the consternation that said tripod caused in any number of Bucharest’s churches and museums would have had you believe that The Tripods had been broadcast in Romania the night before, and that much like the orginal Orson Welles staging of War of the Worlds, people had thought it was for real.

At the Stavropoleos Church, the old lady who ferociously guards the entrance looked at the tripod as though the devil himself had walked in. She ran off to find one of the resident nuns, who, falling for our ‘we’re just tourists’ story, agreed to switch on the lights inside the church so that we could film the quite stunning interior.

(We should point out at this stage that there is in general no great problem with filming inside Romanian churches: every wedding, Christening etc. we have ever been to has been filmed from every possible angle. It is simply the tripod that appears to throw people).

At the Old Court Church we were unceremoniously shooed off the premises by the elderly yet fierce-looking caretaker, though not before we had heroically sneaked some footage of inside the church.

At the Village Museum the woman selling tickets said the presence of the tripod meant we must be professionals (when she sees the results she will know that we aren’t), and that we needed to pay a fee if we wanted to film.

Aware by now that we had already lied to a nun, and that eternal damnation therefore probably awaits (although the donation we made to the church should help a little), we decided to play it straight, and said “OK, we’re professionals. How much?”

“You need to go and negotiate,” she replied.

Ah. Negotiate. That wonderful word.

We thought better of it, and went back to plan A. “Actually, we are just tourists,” we said. She amazingly didn’t question us anymore and promptly sold us tickets, the tripod being admitted for free.

Elsewhere around town it is refreshing to report that we had no hassle whatsoever. Even outside the Interior Ministry the men in suits sitting in their cars left us alone. Only one lone policeman objected to our presence, though that was merely to say he didn’t want to be filmed. The only other place we were prevented from filming was at Piata Universitatii, but again, we were simply told to keep off the grass.

So we should count ourselves lucky. Others (including one regular contributor to this blog) looking a bit too professional have had far more hassle than we did last week.

Now, if you will excuse us, we’re off to church to ask for our souls to be saved.

Paradisul Acvatic, Brasov

Brasov has a water park, Paradisul Acvatic.

It’s not the biggest water park in the world, but compared to any other we’ve visited in Romania, it’s easily the best. Bucharest has its Water Park, but being outdoors (and directly under the flightpath of Otopeni Airport) it has a very limited shelf life (June-September). Paradisul Acvatic is under cover of an enormous glass roof and open year round.

Paradisul Acvatic, Brasov

Paradisul Acvatic, Brasov

Besides the pools and slides there are plenty of other attractions, all included in the reasonable-if-hardly-cheap entrance fee, such as hot tubs, jacuzzis, saunas and a huge Turkish bath (which is really rather good). There is also massage, about the only extra you pay for: 20 lei for 30 minutes.

Our only gripe about the place would be that the onsite restaurant is not great, and is rather expensive. But then who comes swimming to eat?

What’s probably best about Paradisul Acvatic is the view from the main pool: straight towards Poiana Brasov. In winter you can sit in a jacuzzi and look towards Poiana, all covered in snow. It’s rather nice to do so.

We did read a while ago that Bucharest was to get something similar, in Parcul Tineretului of all places. Like many things, the project appears to have died a death.

More Badly Parked Cars

Thanks for these go to a reader, who calls himself simply Mame.

 Strada Grigore Ionescu/Str. Cristea Mateescu

Strada Grigore Ionescu/Str. Cristea Mateescu


 Strada Grigore Ionescu/Str. Cristea Mateescu

Strada Grigore Ionescu/Str. Cristea Mateescu

Poiana Brasov: Nice place, shame about the prices and the (lack of) pistes

Poiana Brasov. Photo by CodGabriel@Flickr

Poiana Brasov. Photo by CodGabriel@Flickr

We used to have a genuine soft-spot for Poiana Brasov, a legacy of a winter a decade or so ago when we would ski there every weekend. As soon as we’d finished work on a Friday we would head off for Brasov, eat at Taverna (then just about the only decent restaurant in the city); stay at the Postavarul (the cheapest sleep in town) and drive up to Poiana very early on Saturday morning, usually in time to get the first cable car up the mountain. That way you would usually be guaranteed at least a couple of hours or so of relatively queue-free skiing. By 11am however the queues would be of basic-foodstuffs-during-communism proportions, and the appeal of skiing in Poiana evaporated.

But we were back the next day, and the next weekend. We skied in Poiana not because is was particularly good, but because it beat the hell out of a winter weekend in Bucharest, and because well, it was there: not three hours away. It would almost have been rude not to go skiing.

The truth is, skiing in Poiana Brasov then was a fairly lousy experience. And while the resort itself – as we saw this weekend on a short research trip ahead of the publication of a new Brasov & Poiana Brasov In Your Pocket Mini-Guide – has never looked better, old problems remain.

Poiana Brasov. Photo by CodGabriel@Flickr

Poiana Brasov. Photo by CodGabriel@Flickr

Visit Poiana Brasov and you will be struck by how many hotels and pensions there now are, and how many more are under construction. Given that until 1990 there were just a handful, the capacity of the resort must have grown by over 500 per cent in 20 years.

And how many kilometres of piste have been added to the measly 13 km Poiana Brasov had in 1990?

None.

The only investment in the skiing infrastructure has been the installation of a new gondola lift three winters ago. And while it has eased queuing a fair bit, it simply means more people sharing the same, very limited ski area.

Yet the biggest gripe we would have about Poiana right now are the prices.

Try looking for a hotel or apartment over Christmas or New Year. You will find nothing for less than €100 per night. All for 13 kilometres of piste.

There was a time when Poiana Brasov was cheap and cheerful. Now it must rank as one of the most exclusive ski resorts in the world: only the wealthy can afford to stay there.

As for us, we’re off to Bansko in Bulgaria, with a still modest but much more respectable 60 km of piste, and where paying for a week’s accommodation for a family of four will not hugely affect your financial standing for the rest of the month.

High Fashion & Van Gogh

We are hardly what you would call fashionistas here at Bucharest Life. To be perfectly honest, our idea of fashion is Man at C&A, while high fashion would be the Angelo Littrio Collection at C&A.

So it was with a mix of surprise and dread that we found ourselves in a front-row seat at the presentation of a new collection by a top Romanian designer last night, held at the now achingly-trendy but-can’t-they-think-of-anywhere-else Ark, on Calea Rahovei.

(By the way, outside the Ark is Bucharest’s biggest flower market, apparently open all day and all night. It is some sight and worth a look if you are around. Find it here).

Predictably, it all started about 45 minutes late, but our attention was immediately bought by the opening ‘act’: a fella in trousers and a woman in a dress that failed to cover her underwear rolling around on the stage in front of us. To see women on stage in their underwear is something we are usually happy to pay good money for.

Anyway, while the clothes were not as ridiculous as we had hoped for – some were perfectly wearable – the gathered press pack did not appear to leave all that impressed with the collection. ‘Underwhelming’ was the reaction of the two or three fashion types whose opinions we gathered.

What appeared to have put most people off however was the music: heavy German metal from a band called Rammstein played at a volume so loud that at one moment we thought our fillings would fall out of our teeth.

Anyway, to recover we went to New Amsterdam: also known as the Grand Cafe Van Gogh, opposite the National Bank. Very nice it is too: a simple daily menu of mildly adventurous Indonesian food alongside toasted sandwiches and baguettes.

We had the green curry, which was terrific, and the rather vague Asian chicken, which was fair.

It is a wonderful place though, dare we say better than the original Amsterdam. Full with Dutch expats on a Thursday night, it appears to be something of an instant winner.