Closing its doors: Baneasa Airport

It’s official. Bucharest’s Baneasa Airport, widely considered one of the worst in Europe, is to close its doors to standard commercial traffic, although it will remain open as a private airport for the personal planes of the rich and famous.

All of the budget airlines currently making use of Baneasa will move operations to Otopeni on March 25th. This is great news for Bucharest.

First impressions count, and there can’t be too many people who have arrived in Bucharest at Baneasa and thought ‘What a modern, efficient place this is.’

Otopeni on the other hand (expensive taxis aside) is a decent airport, though the new departures area is eerily empty at the moment.

Not for long.

 

Who knew?

It turns out that every Wednesday there’s an offer at Bucharest’s cinemas: two tickets for the price of one for Orange customers.

We only found out when we turned up earlier today at the Hollywood Multiplex having promised the kids they could see Happy Feet 2.

Too late.

The place was full of teenagers sporting the kind of haircut that makes you feel like asking them ‘What happened?’

They then talk through the entire film, loudly repeating bits so that everyone knows they understood the jokes.

And the film?

The usual stop global warming, animals good/people bad brainwashing-fest that passes as kids’ entertainment these days.

Some good tunes though.

But then we got home to find out that Romania’s enlightened Constitutional Court has ruled the killing of stray dogs ‘unconstitutional.’

Animals 2 People 0.

 

We first highlighted the quite shocking cost of lift passes at Romanian ski resorts over a year ago, in a rant about the general state of skiing in the country.

Since then there has been improvement – infrastructure wise, at least. Besides the opening of the Arena Platos near Sibiu (more hereafter) new lifts and runs have been opened at both Sinaia and Poiana Brasov. We covered these improvements (and much else, including the fact that there are still many problems) in the feature on Romanian skiing we published in the December-January issue of Bucharest In Your Pocket. Read it here.

Bizarrely, a report at the weekend in German tabloid Bild listed Predeal and Poiana Brasov amongst the cheapest resorts in Europe. As we have long insisted, they are no such thing.

The Bild report used hotel prices as main reason for claiming skiing in Romania was cheap. This is misleading. In every resort in the world (including Courchevel, Verbier and Gstaad) you can find a cheap sleep if you try hard enough. Likewise, you can find very expensive hotel rooms in Predeal and Poiana Brasov (and you don’t even have to try particularly hard).

We think that when it comes to ranking ski resorts by price, the only formula worth any salt is our idea of taking the cost of a day’s lift pass and dividing it by the amount of skiing available.

So this morning we did just that, taking the main Romanian resorts, and comparing their prices with a handful of the world’s best – and usually thought of as the most expensive – ski resorts, from all over the planet. Prices are for one day, for an adult, midweek in January (June in the case of Portillo). All amounts converted to Euros:

Azuga €32/12km = €2.66 per km
Busteni €57/2km = €28.50 per km
Poiana Brasov €27/23km = €1.17 per km
Predeal €22/10km = €2.20 per km
Sinaia €62/40km = €1.55 per km

Note: Poiana Brasov – which has not increased lift pass prices despite adding two new chairlifts this year and almost doubling the amount of pistes – now in fact offers by far the best value skiing in Romania.

Are €43/98km = €0.43 per km
Courchevel/Three Valleys €49.10/600km = €0.08 per km
Portillo €38/45km = €0.84 per km
Verbier €56/410km = €0.14 per km
Winterpark €49/230km = €0.21 per km

Conclusion? Skiing in Romania does not generally offer what we could even begin to term ‘good value’.

Apropos of all this, we spent a couple of days last week in what could well be the world’s smallest ski resort, the Arena Platos at Paltinis, near Sibiu. We didn’t ski, as it hardly seemed worthwhile. Buckling up our boots would have taken longer than skiing down any of the short slopes. We would guess that the total length of the five pistes here is less than two kilometres.

Arena Platos, Paltinis

That said, however, everything about the set-up at Arena Plato is highly impressive.

There are as many drag lifts as there are pistes (keeping queues to a minimum), people not skiing or snowboarding are forbidden from entering the ski area (we can’t be the only people who have many times had to dodge tarts in high-heels walking across the pistes at Poiana Brasov?) the slopes are all floodlit and open until 10pm, there is a car park right at the bottom of the slopes and while the price of a day’s lift pass would be high when the euro per kilometre formula (see above) is applied, skiing here is, all-in-all, a cheap day out (lift pass and ski hire cost less than 100 lei).

If the same people administered Romania’s other ski resorts they might not be in the (generally) sorry state they are.

 

We spent this Christmas and New Year in Petresti, Satu Mare, a place we have been visiting for years (our in-laws live there) and somewhere we identified in the summer as being a contender for Romania’s Best Kept Village, were there such a competition.

Since then, Petresti has become an even nicer place. Alongside the sports hall and the football pitch there is now a ten-pin bowling alley, a lake for fishing, crazy golf and – get this – an amphitheatre. All in a village of a couple of thousand. We doubt there is a better equipped village in the country.

Petresti amphitheatre

Petresti's amphitheatre

Petresti's amphitheatre

Nor – and this is the important bit – has the village council concentrated only on the frivolous, blowing all its money on a new flat screen TV while the fridge is empty, as it were. Oh no.

The village school has been completely renovated, as has the kindergarden. Then there is the gas and sewerage – available to all homes in the village – the pavements (it makes a real difference to people’s quality of life when they do not have to walk through mud) and the playground.

Where the money came from

 

On Friday morning Mircea Lucescu, Romanian coach of the Ukrainian football team Shakthar Donetsk was seriously injured in a car accident in the Drumul Taberei district of Bucharest. According to initial reports, Lucescu – in Romania for the winter holidays – allegedly caused the accident himself by attempting an illegal U-turn across a double tram track. His car was hit by an oncoming tram, knocked out of control and into another oncoming car. Fortunately, neither the driver of that other car nor the driver and passengers on the tram were injured. Lucescu was taken to hospital, and later told he may face criminal charges for dangerous driving.

Since then, the local media has been obsessed with the story. Despite his modest record (he has won just one genuinely important trophy, the UEFA Cup in 2009) Lucescu is generally considered to be the greatest Romanian coach of all time. We would argue that Stefan Kovacs, who won two European Cups back-to-back with Ajax is the rightful holder of that nominal title. Lucescu’s one chance at a top club (Inter, in 1998), ended in failure.

Yet even if Lucescu was the greatest Romanian coach of all time, the fawning, uncritical (Lucescu’s apparent role in causing the accident has by and large been ignored) and constant coverage the case has received is no excuse for the new lows to which the local media has sunk.

Then, just as you thought it couldn’t get any worse, new depths were plunged today when Shakthar’s patron, the Ukrainian oligarch Rinat Akhmetov, flew to Romania to pay Lucescu a visit in hospital. With the press following his car to and from the airport and hanging on his every word, you could have been forgiven for thinking that the Pope had arrived.

Still, having read this article, we guess that it is no bad thing to give Akhmetov a bit of good press.

 

One of our favourite ever moments of Bucharest Life came in September 2006, while we having dinner at a Bucharest restaurant.

A group of French visitors on the next table were trying to order their meals in French, and, after becoming increasingly louder, yet still failing to make themselves understood, they gave up and tried their luck in English.

What made the whole thing so ironically amusing was that Bucharest was at the time hosting the non-event that is the Francophonie Conference, and was dead keen on showing the world how thoroughly French it was…

We were reminded of the Franco-cacophony this week when the man who was responsible for organising the event in the Romanian capital, Cristian Preda, announced that he was prepared to be the PDL‘s candidate in this year’s mayoral election.

As Bucharest residents will no doubt remember come polling day, the conference caused a week of chaos. Numerous roads were closed so that pompous leaders of some rather nasty little regimes could enjoy congestion-free transport around the city, while many schools were closed in order to keep as many ordinary people off the streets as possible. Preda was delighted with the event however, if memory serves, claiming that it was a unique opportunity for Romania to seal a key role in the Francophonie organisation.

The total harmony in relations between Romania and France since then would suggest that he was right.

Oh, hang on…

In related news, little Irinel Columbeanu – best known (until they split up last year) as the male half of the Iri/Moni comedy double act – also this week said he fancied being Bucharest’s mayor, and will stand as an independent.

No, you couldn’t make it up.

A photo that makes us wonder if The Krankies will ever start touring again

 

Is she not perfect for Bucharest?

One thing will dominate Bucharest Life this coming year, and it’s not Elena Udrea in latex. No, having taken a year’s holiday, Romanian politics is back in a big way, with two sets of elections scheduled for 2012, the first since the controversial presidential election of 2008.

As things stand today, the loose and unholy electoral alliance – known as the Union of Social and Liberals (USL) between the Social Democrats (PSD) and Liberals (PNL) look set to romp home with more than 50 per cent of the vote, with the ruling Liberal Democrats (PDL) unlikely to break the 20 per cent barrier.

The Hungarian Nationalists (UDMR) will garner their usual 6-7 per cent, while the Romanian Nationalists (PRM) - who took not a single seat in 2008 – could well face being frozen out of parliament once again. The joker in the pack this time out will be the Popular Party (PP-DD), the personal plaything of television journalist Dan Diaconescu, owner of sensationalist TV channel OTV. In some opinion polls it has support as high as a scary 16 per cent.

A week is of course a long time in politics, so given that the election is not likely to place until December, much could change. Even so, we find it difficult to believe that Traian Basescu will be able to name a member of his own party (PDL) as prime minister post-election. Little Emil Boc looks set for a return to slapstick comedy.

As to when the election will be held, while December is most likely, May is a possibility. The reason is that Romania is also due to hold local elections next year (in May), and to save money the government has proposed holding both sets of elections on the same day. The opposition agrees. It is a sound idea.

The problem is that the government wants the local elections put back to December, while the opposition wants the parliamentary elections brought forward to May.

Cue chaos and a stalemate, with nothing resolved until the last minute. That’s our prediction.

The electoral system to be used has also yet to be decided, although it is to be hoped that the quite frankly stupid method used in 2008 will not be repeated. Even a return to simple proportional representation (the most likely outcome) would be an improvement.

In Bucharest, the scene is set for a battle royale between the incumbent mayor Sorin Oprescu (who, having a year or so ago looked a busted flush, now has the backing – albeit tacit – of the USL) and whoever the PDL can convince to stand against him. Could it be Udrea, who is the head of PDL in Bucharest? Perhaps, but alas unlikely. What we do know is that the PDL intend making the stray dog issue one of the most important in the campaign.